Wednesday, February 13, 2008

A little more about chisels

Eric posted a nice comment in my last blog entry and asked:
What the heck is a dovetail chisel or fishtail chisel? What's the difference between Western bevel and Japanese bevel? And where do you recommend to buy them?
As I wrote before, Japanese chisels are forged with two types of steel that are welded together during the forging process. One thin layer of very hard steel and a thicker layer of softer steel that will support it. The hard steel will become the back of the chisel and the cutting edge and this is the reason Japanese chisels will keep a sharp edge for a longer time than a western chisel.

Some tests like the Bench-Chisel Review published by Fine Woodworking Magazine will give you a clear evidence of this.

All Japanese chisels that I know of have a hollow (or more than one in wider chisels - see top photo) in the back which makes it easier and faster to flatten the back. Otherwise it would require a lot of work to flatten a large surface of very hard steel.

Usually Japanese chisels are somewhat shorter than western chisels, and I like this feature since my hand is closer to the work and I find it easier to control. Other than these I would say there aren't any more differences between Japanese and western bevel edged chisels.

As far as the shape of the blade goes, you can find chisels in many different shapes and some are best suited for certain tasks. Bevel edge chisels are the most common since they are the workhorse of a cabinet shop and useful for most tasks.

A timber framing chisel, often used for more heavy duty tasks, won't have bevels on the sides of the blade and while these can be very good tools for chopping large mortises in a 4x4" or for paring tasks, for smaller projects you'll find that the lack of bevels will usually become a problem when reaching the tight corners of a small mortise.

A dovetail chisel on the other hand has a triangular section, which means that it will get into the tight pin socket between two tails (provided that you're cutting thin tails like our friend Kaleo Kala enjoys - the photo on the homepage of his website is a good example of this) and this is the task where they really excel.

You should avoid to use these for more general tasks as they're not as strong as a bevel edge chisel.

Currently you can find western type dovetail chisels, i.e. made with just O1 or A2 steel like the ones made by Ashley Iles or Blue Spruce Toolworks.

Fishtail chisels are yet another specialty chisel. The cutting edge is shaped in a way that it will get into the tail sockets of half-blind dovetails and you can use them to clean the left and right side of the sockets. An alternative is to use skew chisels (usually sold in pairs - right and left skew angles) but this will require two tools instead of one.

Again, like the dovetail chisels, you can get western type fishtail chisels. It's just a question of preference. I tend to favor the Japanese ones.

As far as where to buy them, I would recommend you to check out the online stores (these will often have a wide range of brands and prices to choose from) and then see what's available locally.

In Europe I would recommend you check out:
In the US you will have more choices but these are my favorites:
In the end you can't go wrong with either a good quality western or Japanese chisel, some will prefer the western tools while others will favor the Japanese ones.

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6 Comments:

Blogger Brad Ferguson said...

Very informative post Luis, I didn't know that Japanese chisels were made like that, you know, sushi knives are made that way too. Keep up the nice work.
Brad

February 14, 2008 2:19 AM  
Blogger Luis Martins said...

Hi Brad, thanks for the kind comment.

Japanese knifes have three layers of steel, one very hard in the middle for the cutting edge and two of soft steel on each side to support it.

I'd love to have some in my kitchen!

February 14, 2008 2:37 AM  
Blogger Eric said...

Outstanding and informative post. Thanks for your work and research in writing it! I get the impression that not many woodworkers know much about Japanese chisels.

I'll definitely be keeping my eye out for some now!

February 14, 2008 3:07 AM  
Blogger neil said...

Hi Luis:

I really enjoyed the last 2 posts. Just learned something about my Sorby's I've used for years without complaint. I was cutting out a knotch in wenge and to be honest, the Sorby's couldn't handle the work, constantly rolling the edge, at the stones way too much. For hinge work, perfect. I was going to suppliment my Sorby's, and like you mentioned Lie-Nielsen was recommended. This is a perfect post for me right now.

Thanks......Neil

February 19, 2008 3:10 PM  
Blogger Luis Martins said...

Hi Neil,

Glad you're enjoying the blog!

What bevel angle are you using on those chisels? A shallow angle for very hard woods will bend or chip easily.

Some people advocate an angle of 30º or even 35º when working with very hard woods such as wenge.

February 19, 2008 11:59 PM  
Blogger neil said...

Hey Luis:

Yep......I ended up changing the angle to make my trips to the stones less frequent, but hated to do it. Not sure exactly what angle; I just new I needed more material at my edge. So that's where a couple chisels specific for very hard wood will be a nice suppliment. I know where my Sorby's will work and will keep them for those tasks.

Neil

February 22, 2008 9:43 AM  

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