Millers Falls No. 2

It has just arrived in the mail today, my "new" Millers Falls No. 2 eggbeater drill.

I ordered this tool a few weeks ago and I was a little curious about the quality. Sure it looked good in the photos on the eBay auction and the seller had a good feedback, but even then I wasn't sure if it would look as good as in the photos. And more important - would it work well?

Then The Schwarz happened to write about a similar hand drill he received from Wiktor Kuc, fully restored, gorgeous and ready to work. I got even more impatient... My package was getting ages to arrive.

Now that it's arrived, all I can say is that this drill looks and feels as good as new, if not better, since every piece on it has been subject to careful inspection.

And yes, it works beautifully!

Making a twisted dovetail box

Here is another great article by John Bullar, once again featuring fantastic joinery.

These twisted dovetails (or nejiri arigata in Japanese) will give any piece an exquisite handmade look.

And not only these dovetails look great, they will handle pulling forces both sideways and lengthways.

Japanese joinery

Correy Smith, a regular at the Japanese Woodworking Forums published some great photos of his latest project - a "Quasi DownEast Chinese Tansu".

This piece features exquisite exposed joinery that take the build to a higher level of craftsmanship. The three way miter is one of my favorites on this piece.

Enjoy....

• Butternut Cabinet - joinery samples
  

A basic set of hand tools - Part IV

Handplanes are often associated with a high level of craftsmanship, smooth surfaces and beautiful curly shavings.

Handplanes

Choosing the first handplane may not be an easy task, there are many models to choose from and while each one has it's funcion, some of them are quite versatile and can be used for various tasks.

When looking for handplanes, some advocate that old is better and that you should get a Stanley or other antique brand name from a local flea market. I don't agree, specially if this is your first handplane.

A vintage tool will require some restoration and tuning before it will perform well enough to compete with the tools produced these days - significant tuning if you want it to perform as well as the top brand names like Veritas and Lie-Nielsen. This is not impossible, but you really need to know what you're doing.

If you've never used a well tuned handplane before, how will you know how it is supposed to perform if you're buying a second hand vintage tool? This is why I recomend that for your first handplane you should buy the best tool you can afford.

Quality handplanes sold these days can use some tuning and they'll perform even better, but out of the box they can perform quite well. Sharpen and hone the iron and you're good to go.

But which ones should I get?

I would say you'll need three planes in your basic set: a low angle block plane, a low angle jack plane and a large shoulder plane.

Here are my reasons:

The low angle block plane, preferably with an adjustable mouth, can be used on end-grain and face grain, you can use it as a small smoother to handle difficult grain by changing the bevel angle on the blade and it's a very handy plane when working with small pieces for small projects.

The low angle jack plane can be a really versatile tool. It can be used as a small jointer to flatten a small board and by closing the mouth and setting the blade for a fine shaving it can be used as a smoother. It won't replace a full size jointer or a smaller smoothing plane, but as a first handplane it will be a tool that will accomplish many tasks.

The shoulder plane will be useful to adjust tenons, rabbets, and whenever you need the blade to extend all the way across the sole of the plane so you can reach a tight corner. This will be the third plane to get.

From here I would say you should get a dedicated smoother, a jointer plane and then you can dive into specialty planes like the router plane. Or you can start to make your won wooden planes.

Next installment: Shaping tools